Dress Shoe Lacing 101: Step-by-Step Guide for Perfect Lacing

You wear dress shoes to make a good first impression. While perhaps a small detail, choosing the right lacing method helps you to put your best foot forward!

Congratulations! You have graduated from sneakers all day, every day. Perhaps you have started a new job, met a new and exciting woman, or are generally ready to upgrade your style.

Now that you have purchased and shined your new dress shoes, it is time to learn how to lace them properly. 

Closed vs. Open Lacing

The first thing to identify when selecting a lacing pattern for your dress shoe is whether your shoe boasts a closed or open lacing construction. 

Closed lacing refers to any style of dress shoe where the quarter and facing are situated under the vamp. (If you’re unfamiliar with these terms, I’ll see the photo below).

A common example of a dress shoe style with closed lacing is the classic Oxfords. 

Open lacing is simply the opposite. Shoes with this lacing style feature the quarter and facing on top of the vamp. 

Derbys use this type of lacing. In fact, being able to identify whether a shoe has open or closed lacing is the main differentiating feature between Oxfords and Derbys.

Knowing whether your shoes have open or closed-laced shoes is important to know when deciding which lacing method to use, as some methods look better on one type over the other. 

Common Types of Dress Shoe Laces

When it comes to selecting the lacing pattern, choosing the right lace material is just as important. A safe bet is to use the laces your pair of shoes comes from. However, if you need or want to replace them, I’d recommend getting thin, flat or round waxed cotton laces.

It’s almost always best to select thin laces for dress shoes as they accentuate the shoes’ formality while maintaining a crisp and neat appearance. 

Best Lacing Methods for Open-Laced Dress Shoes

In this section, I’ll share the best method for open-laced dress shoes (e.g., Derbys): 

Criss-Cross Lacing Pattern

You probably already know the first method on my list. In fact, if you look down at your shoes right now, they are probably cris-crossed laced. 

The crisscross pattern for dress shoes is identical to the crisscross pattern on other shoes and boots.

I’ll use my dress boots as an example below because I don’t own any open-laced dress shoes. 

Step #1

First, with the bottom pair of eyelets, push the lace ends through the top of the eyelets, ensuring that you have an equal amount of lace left on both sides of the shoe.

Pretty simple. 

Step #2

Then, cross the laces as we proceed to the above set of eyelets. With these eyelets, pull the lace ends through the bottom as opposed to pushing them in from the top.

You will alternate pushing in and pulling out the lace ends with each pair of eyelets. 

Step #3

This means that on the third pair of eyelets, again push the lace ends from the outside in. Keep repeating this process until the shoe has been fully laced.

Notice the relaxed look and feel of this particular pattern. Since the quarter and facing are distinct and free from the vamp, this pattern looks pretty snazzy.

If you were to try this on a closed lacing style shoe, like the Oxford, on the other hand, it would result in a taut feel, so much that the vamp and below could display bumps or ridges.

Standard Bar Lacing Pattern

While cris-cross lacing won’t really work with Oxfords, this next pattern is great for both open and closed-lace footwear. 

That said, there is a variant of bar lacing better suited for closed-lacing shoes with more eyelets, which we will discuss later. For all intents and purposes, we’ll treat these as two separate patterns specific to the style of your shoes.

For the straight bar pattern, the excess lace is hidden under the quarter, on top of the tongue. 

Step #1

To begin, you will take the lace ends and push them inside the first and bottom set of eyelets. 

This method has the same start as crisscross lacing.

Step #2

Now, thread the right lace through the closest right-side eyelet and pull it across to its partner on the other side.

Are you still following me? 

Step #3

Next, on the left side, pull the lace end through an eyelet in the same column; only now, we will skip the occupied eyelet. 

Proceed to the eyelet above that one, keeping the vertical part of the lace hidden.

Step #4

Now, You see the pattern evolving. Through one eyelet, across the tongue, and down the parallel eyelet. On the same side, skip the eyelet directly above, rinse and repeat.

Here’s what your shoe will look like in the end. 

Bonus: How To Straight Bar Lace With an Odd Number of Eyelets

The straight bar lace system works best with shoes with an even amount of eyelet pairs. If your shoes have 3 or 5 pairs of eyelets, you can do this pattern by adding an extra step.

On the second to last pair of eyelets, lace the end like normal but return it underneath itself and up and around the eyelet on the opposite side. 

Now, the two ends will be properly situated coming out of the final set of eyelets.

Best Lacing Methods for Closed-Laced Dress Shoes

In this section on closed-lacing style preferred patterns, both consist of diagonal patterns. 

Since close lacing systems are much tighter and compact around the tongue, the inside diagonal lacing is barely visible. This means we can confidently use these more intricate patterns without risking a sloppy appearance.

Diagonal Lacing Pattern

I recommend this technique for any closed lacing dress shoe with lots of eyelet pairs. The more you can show off this pattern, the better.

Step #1

Start by pushing one end of the lace through the top of one eyelet and pull it up through the bottom of its partner.

We’re starting off a bit differently with this one. 

Step #2

Proceed by lacing diagonally, taking the same end we used in the last step. 

Pull the aglet through the bottom of the eyelet to its diagonal. 

Step #3

To lace the other diagonal, pull the opposite lace end through the top of its diagonal eyelet and over the crossing diagonal created in the last step. 

This will be the visible diagonal.

Step #4

Alternate the last two steps of lacing diagonally. 

To create the proper design, you must keep the orientation among the laces the same each time. 

Step #5

For the final pair of eyelets, lace from the inside out. This is the only time the two ends have the same orientation. 

This means that from one side, you need to pull the lace through the bottom of the eyelet, and on the other side, you’ll keep the lace on top by going over the hidden diagonals and pushing the aglet through the top eyelet.

Here’s the final result.

European Straight Lacing

European straight lacing is the aforementioned variation of straight bar lacing that favors closed lacing style shoes. 

This technique is better suited for closed lacing dress shoes because it presents a similar look to the straight lacing pattern, but the hidden diagonal pattern allows more leverage for tightening and loosening leather shoes. 

Step #1

Begin by pushing the two lace ends through the top of the bottom two eyelets. 

Here’s a zoomed-in view (it’s difficult to see black laces on black shoes.)

Step #2

For the first hidden diagonal, pull the right lace diagonally across to the eyelet above its first diagonal. 

Pull the end through the bottom of this eyelet and then lace it directly across through the top. 

It should look like this.

Step #3

For the left side of the lace, instead of skipping the first eyelet, simply pull the diagonal aglet through the first diagonal eyelet. Then, just like before, pull it over and down through the eyelet of the same row. 

Not too difficult, right?

Step #4

Now, for every diagonal, skip an eyelet like you did with the first move. 

The diagonal lace sections will always be under the horizontal sections. Continue this until you have finished lacing.

This technique will let you rock the straight bar pattern on any type of dress shoe. 

FAQ

Here are answers to a few common questions about lacing dress shoes:

What is the difference between open and closed lacing?

Open and closed lacing refers to the construction of the shoe, not the lacing method. Open lacing has a completely visible quarter and facing and is situated above the vamp.

This offers more flexibility to the wearer. On the other hand, closed lacing style shoes tend to appear more formal. This is due to the lines and stitching of the shoe being concealed by parts of the quarter and facing under the vamp.

What happens if I use the wrong lacing pattern?

If you use the wrong lacing pattern, you will likely sacrifice form and function. For example, criss cross lacing on a closed dress shoe will not only look bad, but you will not be able to tighten or loosen the shoe either properly.

Which lacing pattern is the best?

No one lacing pattern is the best. Personally, I prefer European straight lacing for my dress shoes. However, the beauty of these techniques lies in the freedom to express the style you deem “best.” 

How do you tie lace up dress shoes?

Tie dress shoes by simply using whatever knot you use on your regular sneakers or any other pair of laced shoes. 

How do you lace a 5 hole dress shoe?

You can adapt any of the lacing methods outlined about for 5 hole dress shoes. 

How do you hide laces on a dress shoe?

You can hide laces on dress shoes by simply tucking in the bow at the top. 

Conclusion

Armed with a plethora of options to choose from, go forth and tie your shoes with conviction.

Any of these four patterns will elevate your confidence in the way you look, which is incredible, considering that it starts with a simple shoelace.

Are you prepared to try these methods out? Make sure you leave your feedback or questions here in the comment section below!